Chongming'S "Pressure Box Bottom" Cloth Cloth "Ocean"?

Chongming earth cloth Museum recently opened in Chongming County Sanmen cultural village. The Star cloth, the word cloth, the ant cloth, the wicker cloth, the Mao Lanbu, the lacquer cloth... There are more than 150 patterns of "bottom cloth" from island farmers' families.

Nowadays, these colorful and beautifully designed homespun fabrics have been made into garments, hats, shoes, bags and mobile phones through the designer's development.

Homespun is commonly known as coarse cloth made by hand weaving. In Chongming's population, homespun is known as "Lao bu" and "Xiao bu". In the early days, the countryside in Chongming went to the town to sell its own cloth called "sell". Small cloth "The clothes made of homespun are called" old clothes ". Fan Jinggui, director of the three cultural villages in the south of the Yangtze River, wears "old clothes" all the year round. He told reporters: "the cloth made of homespun does not have static electricity and has strong air permeability. It will become more and more soft after many washing, and it will be very comfortable to wear."

According to textual research, the production history of Chongming homespun has been over 500 years. In the Yuan Dynasty, Huang Daopo, a Ukrainian Huating native, learned the textile technology from Hainan, and changed the textile technology. The cotton spinning industry in the south of the Yangtze River and Songjiang region prospered unprecedentedly. Chongming, a neighbor of Songjiang, is rich in cotton, and the advanced textile technology has also been spread to Chongming. During the Guangxu period in the Qing Dynasty, the production of homespun has become a pillar industry in Chongming. At that time, 130 thousand families in the county owned about 100000 loom looms, and 2 million 500 thousand pieces of cloth sold to the field every year, and the length of the woven cloth reached over 6700 million meters throughout the year, which could take about one and a half times around the equator of the earth. Later, with the development of modern textile industry, hand-made Chongming cloth gradually lost its market.

But the production technology of Chongming homespun has not been lost. In the state cotton After the purchase of cotton yarns, the purchase and sale of Chongming's homespun shops ceased completely, but the people in the countryside still used a little cotton on their plots to spin and weave the cloth for their daughters to marry when they were married. It was not until the 70s of last century that when Chongming country girls married, they compared each other with their homespun cloth cloth.

According to Fan Jinggui introduction, Chongming girl married when the homespun cloth in addition to a small number of used. Make clothes Most of them were used to "press the bottom of the box". A year of accumulation, at present, there is a considerable amount of soil cloth stored in the countryside of Chongming, with a conservative estimate of around 600 thousand. The Sanmen Culture Village in the south of the Yangtze River has purchased more than 10 thousand pieces of homespun cloth from the farmers' home. Apart from the exhibition for the homespun Museum, a number of homespun clothes were also on display. After the museum opened, many tourists from home and abroad came to visit, especially foreign tourists, who were reluctant to buy the pure handmade and pure natural cloth.

Recently, the Sanmen Culture Village in the south of the Yangtze River held many seminars on the homespun culture, and experts from all over the region were planning for the re emergence of Chongming's homespun industry. At the same time, a group of designers were hired to add fashion elements to the homespun clothing and accessories.

Fan Jinggui calculated an account: after the 600 thousand pieces of cloth in the countryside have been used up, they are going to reorganize a number of loom looms and hire handmade textile cloth from the rural women. It is estimated that raw materials and labor cost of 2 billion yuan will yield 4 billion yuan output value. He said: "our goal is to re start the brand of Chongming homespun and make old clothes to foreigners."